This article was originally published in November 2016, revised and republished in January 2025.
You can choose between two types of border for embroidered and woven badges.
The most common choice is an overlocked border (also known as a merrow border). With this border type overlocking stitches are used to seal the edges of the badge. The border stitching wraps right around the edges of the badge.
Alternatively we can supply badges with a heat cut border. In this case the edge is cut by laser heat and there is no wrap around border finishing. This allows for very intricate shapes to be cut. If the badge is embroidered, then a border that does not wrap around the edges can still be stitched to the front of the badge, as in the example below where this has been done in a single stitch thickness with black thread.
Our usual advice is to use a heat cut border for a badge with a complicated shape, but this does not mean that all bespoke or unusual shapes require a heat cut border. The determining factor is whether the internal angles are too acute for the overlocker to follow around the outline of the badge.
In the example of the woven badge pictured below the edge of the badge has an undulating line, but the internal angles are not too tight for the overlocker so an overlocked border is still possible:
Sometimes the heat cut border is not a requirement, but is still the preferred choice for a badge. Particularly in the case of a woven badge, a heat cut border is really equivalent to having no border – the design simply finishes at the edge of the badge:
This might be the preferred choice if precision to an outline is key. The other advantage can be in the finished effect once the badge is applied to a garment. Omitting the overlocked border means that the badge will lie flat, and can be a more seamless part of the final garment.
Overall, the most common border choice is the overlocked border, because it gives the effect of a superbly finished badge and also makes the final item a little weightier in feel. A heat cut border is usually advised for a complicated shape, or for complete precision in the shape.
Overlocked (or merrow) borders
Advantages
Disadvantages
The finished appearance is very complete, making the final badge an appealing and saleable item independent from any garment.
It is not possible for the overlocker to manoeuvre around very intricate shapes.
An overlocked border can provide a more traditional feel, because the stitching is raised above the level of the badge itself.
Usually only one thread colour is used for the whole border (if multiple threads are used, the effect is a multi-colour finish, not separately defined sections of different colours).
Heat cut (or laser cut) borders
Advantages
Disadvantages
Intricate shapes can be made with great precision.
The final badge can feel less substantial, with a slightly reduced weight and less thickness at the edges.
When the badge is applied to a garment, it will sit flat to the fabric at the edges.
Especially in small or thin cut areas, the badge may feel floppy when handled.
It might be easier to iron on the patch if the border is heat cut. Because the badge will be thinner, it will be easier to activate the adhesive when applying heat.
If sewing the badges to a garment by hand, the heat cut border will not have a natural border to follow with your stitches, so it might be a little harder to be neat and harder to colour match your thread to the badge border.
